The above values are approximate, rounded for ease of display, and may not equal 100 percent due to rounding and the uncertainty inherent in each of several tests. It is also based upon “blue” sunlamps; if you use warm-tone, or “pink” sunlamps, the visible portion will be slightly higher. Most of the resulting energy from low-pressure lamps is heat; this is normal for fluorescent lamp operation. Other light sources such as high-pressure sunlamps or incandescent home lighting bulbs will demonstrate similar characteristics, though in different proportions. The trick for equipment makers is what to do with the heat. For a sunbed to be temperature-neutral, 100 percent of the heat, including the infrared radiation, must be removed – almost impossible. Some beds are warmer than others for this reason. Some of your customers like a “sweaty tan”, so there is a place for warmer beds. You don’t want your beds to run too hot, though. This will reduce output and shorten lamp service life, as well as reduce satisfaction for tanners who want to stay comfortable, but dry, during their session. Fluorescent lamps require a “cold spot” for management of the small amount of mercury inside the lamp. As long as the cold spot temperature remains near the optimum value, the arc/phosphor radiation is determined by lamp input power (wattage).
The total input power to the tanning system is the power that must be removed from the system. Power that is not removed by airflow will raise the temperature of the tanning system (and anything in it). Approximately two-thirds of the power into each lamp must be lost from the bulb wall in free air. In an enclosure (like a sunbed) where the air is confined, convection losses will decrease with an accompanying increase in the IR radiation. If there is forced air through the system, convective loss will increase with an accompanying decrease in IR radiation. To maximize performance, keep your equipment and its airways clean. |